For their part, furious local and state officials are demanding answers from federal agencies about the abysmal federal response to the catastrophe, which left thousands trapped in a lawless city for days without food, water or medical help. The mayor of New Orleans, Ray Nagin, was actually reduced to sending out "a desperate SOS" for help.

As the city became aware of the storm's approach, Nagin repeatedly referred to the Superdome as a shelter of "last resort," emphasizing evacuation as the only safe choice for New Orleanians. However, it was widely known that New Orleans could suffer catastrophic damage in a storm of Katrina's magnitude, and it was also widely known that tens of thousands of people lacked the means to evacuate. The question in many people's minds in the Astrodome today is, Why weren't better evacuation and shelter contingency plans in place?

At the Astrodome, plates of sausage, eggs and tortillas are being distributed. A crush of people surrounds a station at which Red Cross volunteers are passing out underwear, stockings, socks, T-shirts, diapers and toiletries. The bleachers are festooned with wet clothing set out to dry in the neon lights. The showers are supplied with soap, and the bathrooms are equipped with industrial-sized pumps of hand sanitizer. On one set of seats hangs a sign announcing free children's events, including a trip to the Houston Zoo.

Despite the appearance of centralized management behind this rescue operation, the relief efforts taking place at the Astrodome are entirely ad hoc. "I was at work this morning minding my own business when I got a mass e-mail from my company saying that we are in great need of volunteers at the Astrodome," says Bryce Giescer, in his mid-50s. "I just showed up, found a Red Cross person and said, 'Point me and push,' and they did." Giescer is an employee of the Reliant Energy Co., which provides most of the electricity for the Houston area. Other companies, including Continental, Shell Oil and BP, are providing a staff of volunteers.

Across the 610 expressway from the Astrodome is Astro World, an amusement park that has offered free entry to anyone staying at the Astrodome. Houston's Third Ward Bike Shop is donating 50 bicycles to evacuees, and kids can ride around the vast and empty parking lot that surrounds the stadium.

Despite the vastly improved conditions at the Astrodome, there are some problems. Several people have been arrested for fighting over cots, and 30 guns were confiscated. Several evacuees have been seen repacking suitcases full of looted merchandise. In the bathrooms, one emergency medical official who declined to be named ordered some New Orleanians to cease using drugs in the stalls. The days spent in the Superdome have left people in varying states of trauma.

The dramatic failure of authorities to deal with the New Orleans catastrophe has caused darker thoughts to surface among former residents. "In some places, the streets are totally dry," says Nathaniel Brooks. "And in other places you can't see the tops of the houses. I don't know how to account for this. But it seems like something's not right."

While kids appear to be content coloring in donated coloring books and playing on the rolled-up bolts of Astro-Turf, many adults lie in their cots staring blankly into the distance. As we approach people, many are indifferent about speaking to us. They have gone through enough already and don't seem to feel that talking to the media will do anything to improve their situation. But traces of the old New Orleanian civility remain. People who do feel able to talk with us shake our hands and tell us to be safe and to take care of ourselves.

Some refugees from Katrina feel betrayed by their city to the point that they are ambivalent about returning. "I've put in my application at the Holiday Inn down the street," says Johnraver Prince, 19. "New Orleans is not doing what they can for us. I'm thinking to stay." Other evacuees echoed these sentiments. Some say their lives in New Orleans have been completely destroyed.

Recent Stories