Jerusalem braces for Christian pilgrims

But not all Jewish residents agree with the ban on Christmas in Jerusalem. Many Israelis -- who consider Jerusalem their capital, but would like it to be an open, cosmopolitan city -- are appalled by the hostility expressed by some religious Jews. Rabbi David Rosen, director of the Anti-Defamation League in Israel, deplored "Rabbi Lau's retrogressive mind-set."

He went on to say that Lau's statements highlight the weakness of the rabbinate as an institution, one that is intimidated by hard-line ultra-Orthodox Jews. "I don't think Christmas trees irk a majority of Jews in the slightest -- only those who are very insular. A large proportion of the public isn't excited by them, but not upset either. The overwhelming majority of Israelis welcome the pilgrims -- not just because they'll be good for the tourism industry -- but because they want friends for Israel."

At a diplomatic level, when Palestinians and Israelis are engaged in negotiations over the final status of Jerusalem, it is important for Israel to show that members of all faiths are treated fairly under its rule, said political analyst Ezrahi. In nearby Bethlehem, the Palestinian Authority has channeled more than $100 million of foreign aid into revamping the birthplace of Jesus, in the hope that tourism will yield long-term benefits and curry goodwill for Palestinians in the Christian world.

Jerusalem city officials have also made an effort not to antagonize Christians. "The gates of Jerusalem are open," says the motto on the city's millennium Web site. The new millennium is an opportunity for Jerusalem to "take advantage of its status as a holy city" and present itself as "a city of peace, pluralism and understanding between religions," said Michael Weil, special advisor for Jerusalem 2000 at the city hall.

But the municipality's hands are tied in various ways. Doomsday scenarios are keeping authorities on their toes and creating a climate of wariness rather than joyful expectation. Although the risk that a pseudo-Christian cult will try to blow up Jerusalem's shrines, unleash Armageddon and hasten Jesus' Second Coming has been much exaggerated by the press, the municipality has to be prepared for the worst.

According to Yedioth Ahronoth, Israel's leading newspaper, some 15,000 policemen, soldiers and security officers are expected to patrol Jerusalem on New Year's Eve; 400 video cameras are being installed in the Old City's cramped alleys. "If the Christian celebration is a celebration of the end of days, then their celebration could be our demise," emphasized Rabbi Donniel Hartman, a teacher at the Shalom Hartman Institute.

While Jesus look-alikes are eyed suspiciously by the security services as potential terrorists these days, wealthy Christian pilgrims are viewed as dangerous proselytizers by ultra-Orthodox Jews. "It's evident from the Web sites of Christian groups that they're planning to make a special missionary effort for the millennium," said Rabbi Mordecai Plaut, editor of the English version of Yated Neeman. "They're putting a lot of money into it."

Rabbi Plaut's concern is that Christian missionaries will try to win "those out there who are less secure, less involved with their Judaism."

Ultimately, though, the lack of enthusiasm toward Christian tourists has less to do with these pilgrims' religion than with Israel's domestic divisions. "The ultra-Orthodox would like Jerusalem to be a ghetto," said Ezrahi. "They have an aversion against strangers of all kinds and in the category of strangers, secular Jews -- who have an alternative understanding of Judaism -- are much more of a threat to them than fundamental Christians."

All year long, in the towns on the Mediterranean coast where most Israelis live, Jews desecrate the Sabbath by driving to movies, watching soccer on TV and drinking freshly made espresso. Jerusalem used to be different -- a more conservative and spiritual city. But even here, to the dismay of the ultra-Orthodox, secular Jews are clamoring for a lifestyle less confined by traditional religious rules.

When Timsitt, the Hyatt Hotel manager, spoke in parliament recently in favor of allowing music on Friday nights, he was thinking more about the freedom of his establishment than in terms of Christian rights. Timsitt hopes that hotels in Jerusalem will be subject one day to the same kind of religious laws as hotels in Eilat -- a relaxed beach town at Israel's southern tip where hotels are awarded kosher certificates for complying with Jewish dietary laws but are free to operate nightclubs on the Sabbath.

Indifference to Christianity remains the most widespread attitude among both religious and secular Israelis. High school students learn very little about Christianity -- and only in the context of history lessons which dwell on the overwhelmingly negative 2,000-year-old story of Jewish-Christian relations. Ignorance coupled with an aversion toward religiosity in general help explain why Israel's secular majority has allowed a hard-line minority to dominate the millennium issue, said Rabbi Hartman.

At a governmental level, the decision to keep celebrations low-key also reflects domestic concerns. Despite the huge organizational effort that hosting millions of tourists demands, the official line is that the new millennium is a Christian celebration, not a state event. The Israeli government does not want to provoke the religious parties who hold about a quarter of the seats in parliament, said Ezrahi, because they are instrumental in supporting the peace process with Syria and the Palestinians. "The Israeli government is making a rational calculation about what is important to Israel. The ultra-Orthodox will eventually lose their power, but only when peace is consummated -- sometime in the next millennium."

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